Saturday, February 18, 2012

Rampart Creek

Hello there, I am finally getting around to posting about the rest of my trip to Canada. On the 5th we moved from Canmore to the hostel at Rampart Creek. It was a "wilderness hostel" located in the middle of the Icefields Parkway with no running water and alternative energy. While we were there we decided to try some classic routes located around the famous Weeping Wall. Unfortunately it had been very warm and the ice that was exposed to the sun was rotting out making the climbs start to fall down. I suppose it was fitting though so we could continue with our theme of not topping out on any climbs while in Canada.

On the 6th we attempted Mixed Master (300m, WI5, 5.8), and after lots of fun climbing with rock and ice coming down as we went up we found ourselves looking up at a very melted out pitch 7.  Needless to say we bailed and upon reaching the ground we found our packs had been vandalized by the ravens; they had even pecked a hole through Amos' bag in search of his sandwich! With Amos repeatedly yelling "Birds and Sandwiches!' we packed up and returned to the hostel.


Mixed Master - by John Giraldo

Amos nearing the top of P1 - by John Giraldo

P7 - by John Giraldo

Icefields Parkway and Saskatchewan River - by John Giraldo

The next day we needed gas so we drove 150km to Jasper and checked out the scenery while we were at it. On the way we passed a guy who had run out of gas about 25 or so miles from Jasper so we put him in the kiddie seat and gave him a ride. To my amazement when we stopped at the gas station he went inside, bought a 1.25 gallon gas jug and then had us return him to his completely empty car. I wonder if he ever made it back....

On the 7th we attempted Polar Circus (700m, WI5). Quickly soloing the first 3 pitches we made it to the Pencil which had formed huge this year. Hearing that it was badly cracked but stable I decided to give it a shot and after hanging on for dear life for four screws of overhang I finally managed to get to the vertical bit and top out. Amos started up the upper pitches and after two curtain spanning cracks that had us convinced 100 tons of ice were going south any second he lowered off a screw and we ran for the car.

The Pencil - by Amos Swanson

Cracking curtain - by John Giraldo

Free hanging awesomeness - by John Giraldo

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