START & STOP ACTION: Tap Dance, Eklutna Glacier

I headed into Eklutna Glacier this weekend with my friend Mark for Harry's annual party. With my primary objectives shelved due to recent snowfall we decided to climb Road to Nowhere, a fun route I had done last year. Three 70 meter pitches brought us to the snow slopes just as the sun was going down we were soon back in the warm cabin.

After some brainstorming we decided to do some exploring so the next morning we set off to try a line I had seen across valley from Miller Might. After a bit of scrambling we made it to a comfy belay and I set off. After some delicate runout climbing I managed to make to to the top of the steepness but was unable to find a solid belay. After what seemed like hours and lots of weirdness I was finally able to find a big enough ice lens up by the snow slope to make a v-thread. Not trusting this belay enough to bring Mark up on I gingerly rappelled and we returned to the cabin for John-made spaghetti :)

Overnight a warm front moved in and we awakened Sunday morning to a snowy gale. Unable to climb everyone decided to clear out the cabin and after a short ride back across the lake we were back to the car.

Tap Dance, 25m WI4+

Delicately tap and hook your way up this fun route, it would be much better with a bolted belay on the wall directly above the ice flow, if you climb it take a bolt kit!